Reflections on Finding Culinary Work in Chicago

Fall 2005: My husband and I moved out to Chicago where he was starting business school at the GSB. I was craving to work with a high end catering company; looking for inspiration and knowledge that I never found at my previous Sous chef position in Boston. Finding a job was much harder than expected, as it always seems to be. Below is an excerpt of an interview I had with a catering company north of Chicago, Food for Thought. http://www.foodforthought-chicago.com/

My next interview was with a company that I found through Chowhounds.com. I had posted an inquiry asking if anyone knew of any high end catering companies in the Chicago area and an administrative assistant from a well-respected company, Food for Thought, responded. She wrote: “We are always looking for good people – once we’ve found them, we figure out where to put them!” Interesting reply, but I took it with a grain of salt and took some time to research the company and lined up a meeting.

This company was large and known for its beautiful artistic culinary creations. I later learned that they did about $13 million in annual sales. The kitchen was located a bit north of downtown Chicago, in a quiet industrial/residential area. I walked in and introduced myself to the receptionist.

“Just have a seat. One of our Sous chefs will be right with you,” she said.

Twenty minutes after the interview was scheduled to start, one of the Sous chefs appeared. Dressed in her whites, she was a little short and stocky, but had a sweet face with short brown hair. She gave me an application and a list of thirteen culinary questions to test my knowledge. Still sitting in the lobby, I filled out the application, attached my resume and moved onto the questions.

If you are making a Farfalle pasta salad, what shape pasta do you need?
What temperature do you cook a stuffed chicken breast to?
What are the ingredients in a bouquet garni?
What are the temperature danger zones?

Another twenty minutes later, the Sous chef reappeared and led me into their kitchen. There was a six foot stainless steel table set up with three different stations. The first had a cutting board, knife, various fruits, a box of gloves, an empty bowl, and a platter. I was instructed to make a fruit salad. The next had another cutting board, an onion, carrot, and two bowls.

“Please brunoise the onion and place it in this bowl,” she said pointed to one of the small Styrofoam bowls, “and julienne the carrot and place it in this bowl,” she continued as she pointed to the other bowl.

“Now I’d like you to make a simple three egg omelet. Cooked to medium with no color. Here are your eggs, some butter, and a spatula.”

Besides the ingredients was a hibachi with a small non-stick pan atop. I went to work while I kept one eye on her grading my “quiz” and mark a “13/13” at the top.

After I completed the three tasks at hand, we walked out of the kitchen and into a small conference room where one of the executive chefs joined us.

I asked about the chef’s background and he said he had come from Artistic Events, but now he wanted to be the “be the best in Chicago.” He repeated this a few times with intense enthusiasm. I got the point. Their events were primarily large and in addition to that, they also provided a handful of corporate lunches each day. There was always a ton of production done each week, but beyond two executive chefs, and three Sous chefs, the work was done by a dozen or so Mexicans who were inexpensive machines in the kitchen. The work at event was primarily done in “caves.”

“Cave cooking” involves using sterno to heat warming racks and cooking the meals inside the warming racks inside the catering trucks. Nothing I had ever seen or heard of in Boston. They were looking for event chefs. My schedule would be Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. I would be paid around $12 an hour and tips were not guaranteed.

After two hours, I fled the building and headed home feeling little discouraged. Two interviews and two let downs. Our week in Chicago was almost up and I tried to focus on the next two meetings. The search continues...

Homeade Ricotta Cheese

When I worked at the Ritz-Carlton, we made fresh ricotta cheese mainly for canape toppings. After spreading a little on a toast point, we would top it with either prosciutto or candied figs. The flavor is totally different than what you find in the store. Some would say it's bland, but I just think it has a more delicate and subtle flavor. The texture isn't stiff, but more creamy almost like an aged brie.

Frequent seven day work weeks with at least ten hour days. The amount of product that went through our kitchen was unbelievable. Long 'trucks' would be wheeled in early in the morning carrying wheels of Manchego, Parmigiano Reggiano, Explorateur, , Taleggio, Pecorino, Amish Bleu, and Brillat Savarin. Quince paste, fresh figs, dried figs, and cases of champagne grapes stacked so high we would have to reach above our heads to pull items from the top. The butcher would deliver sheets pans of A-breast chickens, duck breasts, and trimmed sirloins. Then an order from Wabash Seafood would arrive with 70 sides of salmon that we would make into a variety smoked salmon or gravlax. In addition, hundreds of oysters and crab claws instantly filled our walk-in coolers. It was an overwhelming sight. The amount of consumption combined with the amount of money changing hands amazed me.

Our Thanksgiving menus were not traditional. The banquet department took care of the that. We focused on salads and plattered protein to enhance the rest of the buffet. We provided extensive seafood displays with ice sculpture, shrimp, crab claws, oyster and all the appropriate sides (Cognac cream sauce, mignonette, cocktail, horseradish). We also provided enormous cheese marbles. The marbles themselves were close to six feet long and three were displayed at a time reflecting assorted soft, hard, and bleus. Our smoked fish displays included salmon, gravlax, shrimp, sturgeon, black cod, and scallops. Our salads varied from sesame tuna and poached halibut to potato salad with truffle vinaigrette to roasted root vegetables. Country pate, chicken liver, and duck pate was also served with grain mustard, cornichons, and Cumberland sauce.

It was an extensive display to say the least. The amount of work and high stress moments made it easier to forget that we were all away from our families. We were each other's family for the day. Once I got in the cab home those evenings, I was so exhausted, I passed out in the car.

Back to the ricotta. Homemade ricotta is rather simple. It probably sounds scary because it's unfamiliar. But here what you'll need:

1 gallon of whole milk

1 quart of buttermilk

1/2 quart of heavy cream

1/2 a lemon

1. Combine the whole milk, heavy cream, and buttermilk in a pot and warm over med-lo heat. Stir frequently to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom. Be patient and keep the heat low.

2. Once the mixture is warmed through, squeeze half the lemon in and continue to stir.

3. After a few minutes, a the curd will separate from the weigh. Keep the heat low for another 3-5 minutes until the liquid becomes a bit more clarified.

4. Strain the liquid through some cheesecloth and let the cheese sit in a strainer for a few minutes.

5. Refrigerate and season when you're ready to use.

This make a lot of ricotta, so feel free to half the recipe. The flavor is so mild that you can top it with anything sweet, salty, crunchy, etc. Possibilities are endless.